DIY Tiling  |  Floor Tiling  |  Wall Tiling

Laying Ceramic Floor Tiles:

Preparation:

• Planning and setting out.
• Calculate the surface area and remember there will be cutting along the perimeter
• The centreline of the room is used as the setting out point for the tilling, this is to ensure the tiles are laid evenly and squarely in the most conspicuous part of the room with the cutting along the edges
• No matter how small the area to be tiled, always start from the centre

Before you begin, make sure that the floor to be tiled is sound, firm and level.

• Damp surfaces need to be treated with a waterproofing compound
• Bumps will cause tiles to crack, therefore remove all high spots and if need be fill the low spots.
• Powdery surfaces need to be coated with a latex-based sealer before being tiled

Find the centreline of the room, (along the longest line) You will most likely find the walls are not parallel nor square so "sweeten" the setting out line to suite. Mark it off with a chalk line.

Laying tiles:

Tiles are laid from the centre of the room outwards. Most tile manufacturer's recommend an adhesive. The most important rule for tiling is to cover only a small section of the floor at a time. Lay the four centre tiles in position to coincide with the crossed chalk markings. Do not push the tiles together as this can force the excess adhesive up between the tiles. Wipe off any surplus adhesive before it has time to set, using the 2inch nail between the tiles,or a damp cloth from on top of the tiles. Smears can be removed with soap and a brush - never use a solvent. Work outwards from the centre four tiles, applying only as much adhesive as is necessary for each small section before you tile. Finish one area before moving on to the next section.

Cutting tiles to fit:

Tiles around the edge of a room usually need to be cut to fit. Place a tile squarely on top of the last one before the border. Take another one and place this on top of the second (middle tile), but firmly butted against the wall. The inner edge is then used to mark a cutting line on the middle tile with a marking pencil. The uncovered part will fill the gap. Draw a second line inside the first so as to have space for grouting. (This will be the cutting line) Cut the tile using the tile saw. Make sure that the middle tile is of the correct type, and in the right direction, before cutting.

When you are laying into and around a corner, tiles need to be cut both widthways and lengthways. Use the same procedure as for a straight border, but repeat this for the two sides of the corner, without turning the middle tile.

Cut tiles individually even if the border looks straight and even, so that you take care of any irregularities. For odd shapes, such as beams or any other fixed apparatus, carefully nibble away at the tile using the tile nibbler, until it slides into place. A template cut from cardboard saves wasting too many tiles.

Grouting:

Allow 24 hours for the adhesive to set before filling the spaces between the tiles with grout. Grout is available in powder form to be mixed with water, or as a ready- mixed paste. Mix the powder to a stiff consistency.

Spread the grout liberally using the grout spreader, pushing it well into the joints. Use a clean flat sponge to wipe away any excess grout before it sets. When the grout has set, polish the tiles with a soft cloth. Ready-mix grouting is available in different colours.

Replacing broken tiles:

Begin by digging out the grouting around the damaged tile with a sharp tool, such as a pointed scraper. Next chip away at the tile using a hammer and chisel, working from the centre. Scrape out the old adhesive and use a brush to remove all dust. Place the new tile in position and check that it is level when fitted using a spirit level. Make sure that the tile's level is slightly lower than that of the tiles around it to allow for the thickness of the new adhesive. Apply fresh adhesive and press the tile back into position. Regrout the spaces around the tile after the adhesive has dried.

Quarry tiles:

Quarry tiles are unglazed and hard wearing. They are best laid on a concrete floor, which must be perfectly smooth and level. A wooden floor will generally need strengthening to bear the weight of the quarry tiles. Quarry tiles are laid from the centre out, as are ceramic tiles. (See above)

Cutting a quarry tile:

Measure the gap to be filled as for ceramic tiles and mark the line on the underside of the tile with a pencil. Now mark another line just inside it, this being the cutting line, allowing room for grouting.

Because they are dense and hard, cutting quarry tiles is an exacting job. No matter how careful you are, some tiles are likely to crack during cutting, so it is best to buy a few extra. If you do not have a tile cutter, and have only a few tiles to cut, you can use a cold chisel. Always mark and cut a tile on the underside.

Lay the marked tile on a brick base and tap a row of indents along the line using a chisel and hammer. Now hold the tile in both hands, and firmly strike it on the indented line against the side of the brick. After cutting the tile, smooth the rough edge with a file.